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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:21 pm 
I have never had much sucess in soldering. What do you guys use in terms of a gun and what solder do you use? What techniques do you implement?

Help

David


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 Post subject: soldering track
PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2004 12:00 am 
Hello David,
Some of use the American beauty soldering station, (resistance type) others use a pencil iron 35 watts should do in N.
Preparation is all important. clean rail down to shiney metal, clean pc tie, flux, some pretin others don't, I use silver bearing solder, it flows well

Rob


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2004 9:50 am 
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(!empty($user->lang['QUOTE'])) ? $user->lang['QUOTE'] : ucwords(strtolower(str_replace('_', ' ', 'QUOTE'))):
I have never had much success in soldering. What do you guys use in terms of a gun and what solder do you use? What techniques do you implement?


Hi David,

Soldering is a skill that is easily picked up, and one that is very useful in model railroading, especially when hand building trackwork.

The have an in-depth tutorial on soldering in our newsletter archive, it can be found here:

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7

Read it over, it is a short explanation of the steps required to produce quick, clean solder joints, compiled from many years of experience. Of course, the most important step is a bit of practice.

Hope this helps!

_________________
Cheers!

Tim Warris
Fast Tracks
http://www.fast-tracks.net
service@fast-tracks.net


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 Post subject: Solder used is key, too
PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2004 5:56 pm
Posts: 1
I used to use the thinnest rosin-core solder I could find at Radio Shack, but the free sample of the super-thin acid-core solder I received with my Fast Tracks jig (#6 turnout, HO, code 70 ME) was a real eye-opener. The amount of solder needed to make a good joint is much, much less, and I have been able to eliminate those unprototypical-looking blobs on the outsides of my ties. I recommend you try the solder sold here if you haven't already.

Robert Parsons
Toronto, Canada

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Robert Parsons
Toronto, Canada


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 2:23 am 
[quote="Robpar"]I used to use the thinnest rosin-core solder I could find at Radio Shack, but the free sample of the super-thin acid-core solder I received with my Fast Tracks jig (#6 turnout, HO, code 70 ME) was a real eye-opener. The amount of solder needed to make a good joint is much, much less, and I have been able to eliminate those unprototypical-looking blobs on the outsides of my ties. I recommend you try the solder sold here if you haven't already.

I have to agree. I found some .015" rosin core at a computer supply house (expensive! almost $40 per one-pound spool) but the tiny diameter means it takes a lot less heat to melt the solder, thus it's much more viscous, so it flows much better. It's the difference between nice flat shiny soldering joints, and weak ugly pointy gobs of metal (and discolored or burnt rail/ties because of all the heat required.)

Get the thinnest solder you can find. .025" might be good, but if .015" is around, it's really worth the price!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2005 9:29 am 
I located .015" acid solder at Mouser.com, priced at $26.67/1 lb. spool. This should be enough for several hundred turnouts. I would still use the acid flux paste with it, just as the soldering techniques state. Mouser's part number is: 24-6337-6422. The above price does not include shipping, but shipping is not much. The type of solder is "331" Water Soluble Core Solder. Hope this helps. There are also several other diameters, all larger than this one. Anyone else out there tried this one?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:47 pm 
Can someone who is using a resistance soldering outfit briefly explain which attachments and techniques you use? I have an American Beauty unit that I'd like to use if possible.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 11:55 pm 
Use the small hand tweezer piece, with the stainless steel tips. Lasts longer, and more controllable.


rob


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