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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2004 7:05 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2004 1:32 am
Posts: 3
No one has replied to my previous topic, so I'll try here. I have now completed two On3 switches, and both have turned out fine (almost). I prefer solid-point switches. I expected trouble with the frogs and points, but both were a snap with the new point grinding tool. The trouble I am having is maintaining the proper gauge from the "S" tie to the points, especially on the diverging closure rail. Typically, it ends up too tight and the truck wheel climbs up onto its flange. I tried soldering the rails to the "H" tie, and that cures the problem and makes the points only slightly harder to throw. The distance from the "S" tie to the points is about 23 scale feet, and that seems to me to too long. Other commercially made switches with solid points use shorter distances. The "H" tie is about 14 feet. Wouldn't a distance of about 18 feet be a good compromise, or am I just doing something wrong?

Bruce :(


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2004 7:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 07, 2004 11:22 pm
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Location: Port Dover, Ontario
(!empty($user->lang['QUOTE'])) ? $user->lang['QUOTE'] : ucwords(strtolower(str_replace('_', ' ', 'QUOTE'))):
The trouble I am having is maintaining the proper gauge from the "S" tie to the points, especially on the diverging closure rail. Typically, it ends up too tight and the truck wheel climbs up onto its flange.


Since the rail is "floating" from the end of the points to the "S" tie, there is nothing to hold it in gauge other than its pre-formed shape. It is critical that this rail is pre-bent to closely match the fixture before it is soldered to the tie and the throwbar tie, especially in the larger sizes where the length of the closure rail can be fairly long. I usually will lay this rail beside the groove to ensure it is as close as possible. Once soldered in place it should hold its position. When the turnout is removed from the fixture you can check it with a track gauge to ensure that the gauge is consistant throughout the turnout, if it is out a bit it is possible to "shape" it a bit by carefully bending it with your fingers to get it in gauge.

It may be possible in the larger scales to use the "H" tie and still flex the points, but it would likely be pretty stiff and may weaken the solder joint.

Give this a try and let us know how you make out....

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Cheers!

Tim Warris
Fast Tracks
http://www.fast-tracks.net
service@fast-tracks.net


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2004 7:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2004 1:32 am
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Thanks for the tip. I missed the part in the instructions about pre-forming the diverging rails. They do seem pretty "springy" if you don't, and I didn't.

Bruce :)


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