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 Post subject: Is this a good idea?
PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 11:18 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 11:09 am
Posts: 4
Location: New Jersey
I'm considering hand-laying my HO scale, standard gauge track (obviously or I wouldn't be here) and wondered if it would work OK to solder my straight (meaning non-turnout) rails to PC board ties instead of spiking them? Perhaps every fourth or fifth tie could be a PC board tie instead of a wooden one.

I have a couple reasons for considering this. One is that I have some older steam engines I really want to use. They run OK on code 83 rail but I'm not sure they'd work on code 70 with spikes, but by eliminating the spike I thought I'd get more clearance. It also seems a soldered joint would be stronger especially using silver-bearing solder, it would be less likely to work loose. The rails would be less likely to shift length-wise, and in looking at real tracks you really can't see the spikes from any distance so it seems it would look more prototypical. Plus a good portion of the track-work could be done built at the work-bench using templates instead of laying track in-place.

The downsides seem to me to be hiding the PC board ties (same problem I'd have with the turnouts though) and making sure the wooden ties are the same thickness as the PC board ties (ditto on the turnouts).

I'd glue the ties down before attaching the rails and set the rails using three-point track gauges.

Does anyone else use this method?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 07, 2004 11:22 pm
Posts: 311
Location: Port Dover, Ontario
Hi,

Actually, I use this method! Instead of re-explaining it here, I will post a link where you can find some pictures of how I do this....


http://www.handlaidtrack.com/port-kelsey/index.php?p=33

I am not concerned about hiding the PC board ties on the completed trackwork, I intend on painting the wood ties, PC ties and rail all at once. The ballast will hide any thickness mismatch between the PC ties and the rail.

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Tim Warris
Fast Tracks
http://www.fast-tracks.net
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 Post subject: Soldered rail
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2005 1:01 am 
Not only a good idea, it's been done for quite a while... Craig Tice's Mojave & Panamint R.R., as featured in the Feb '93 Railroad Model Craftsman did that:

(!empty($user->lang['QUOTE'])) ? $user->lang['QUOTE'] : ucwords(strtolower(str_replace('_', ' ', 'QUOTE'))):
"The M&P features code 40 track that is entirely handlaid. Most ties were individually cut from stripwood, with every fourth or fifth tie being Clover printed circuit board to which the rail is soldered. The PC foil is slit in the middle to provide electrical isolation between the two rails."


http://home.att.net/~craig.w.tice/rmc/Index.html
http://home.att.net/~craig.w.tice/mprr/Index.html

With code 40, it makes sense, since most spikes would start to interfere with flangeways, but even for larger rail it would make sense. I personally never liked fussing with spiking (and respiking!) every inch of my right o' way, so for me anyway, this is the way to go.

- T


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2005 9:21 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 11:09 am
Posts: 4
Location: New Jersey
Well Tim, if it's good enough for you it's good enough for me! I especially like your method of attaching one rail, getting the curve, then attaching the other rail.

OK, another question: It seems to me that the PC board ties provide an excellent place to attach feeder wires, they're already electrially attached to the rails, if you solder a wire to the tie you should have a good connection without problems with the wire interfering with the wooden ties. Hiding the wire may be problematic though.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2005 4:35 pm 
Others have done this. my only concern would be thermal expansion and contraction.

My recommendations is to put the rail into the oven for 2 hours at about 150 degrees. This should take out any strains the metal acquired during the drawing process. Another recommendation is to have a firmly made subase. absolute min 1/2 plywood sealed, (I prefer 3/4inch seven ply) and lay the track in the room at a medium temp, split the difference between high and low heat.
The reasons for the above?
Is some folks experienced failed solder joints on long sections. My thoughts on this is the track being soldered to the ties is very unforgiving of thermal expansion (or constraction) because of poor subase design or construction, not allowing for expansion, (laying track in cold conditions) not sealing the wood, (humidity swells wood unless its sealed well) additionally I would use pliobond to glue the track to the SEALED CORK roadbed. Pliobond is more flexible than epoxy or white glue and will allow a very small amount of linear movement.

Keep those issues in mind and perhaps bond your ballast with matte medium, (which is more flexible than white glue) and you shouldn't experience any problems at all.

rob


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