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 Post subject: Double Slip Switches
PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2005 3:16 pm 
I'm presently in the paper phase, so thinking and reading....
I will probably need a couple of double slip switches, I am already thinking I'll handlay all my turnouts (trading time for money), and will be seriously considering the assembly fixtures for switches that I'll be using in significant quantities. But for one or two, I was thinking of using a template, and some patience. So I was looking at different sites, drawings, templates, and ideas.
In summary, it sounds like switchable frogs are a good idea, but when you get to a #6 frog you start to have a space problem to pull that off. So, have I interpreted the template drawings correctly:
#4 and #5 frog, fixed frog, hinged points
#6 frog, fixed frog, bending (for lack of a better word) points
#8 frog, moveable hinged frog, hinged points

It looks like I could order a #7, but the template doesn;t exist, so I'm guessing you just haven't built one yet.

Is the #6 template accurate, or should the points hinged?

What would the #7 look like?

In the bigger picture, would it make more sense to buy the fixture for the double slips, even if there are only a couple, and build the standare switches without? I am just trying to be as efficient with the (non) available funds as possible, while getting something that works!

Thanks,
Jeff


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 Post subject: Double Slips
PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2005 4:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:48 am
Posts: 365
Location: East Texas - USA
Jeff,

For HO (and most other scales), the #6 Double Slip can safely have a fixed center crossing 'K' frog - thus the FT templates are correct there.

Beyond #6 DS will likely require moving point center crossing frogs - and the points are really short - thus hinged arrangements at that location are a must. (One can use flexing points on the longer end divering locations).

I'd suggest you buy the regular turnout fixture - build up a number of turnouts - practice with making some hinged points on some of the normal turnouts.

Then - using the DS template - a good gage (actually I'd suggest several gages), you can work through the DS construction well enough if you do take your time AND have had some experience.

One issue is the choice of rails you use to construct the DS. (Actually all constructions). The smaller rails allow more freedom in the clearance areas AND will bend or flex a bit better at the long points. Since you're using PC boards and solder for the major assembly - the flange height clearance is not a problem (until you get down to really small rails). Spiking the assembly onto ties with some of the really very small etched spikes avialable from the P87 Stores is not that bad. Otherwise using gluing methods will suffice since the PC boards are holding it all together.

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2005 4:48 pm 
Thanks for the useful input. That's matches what I was thinking, pretty much. The double slip will probably be #5 (at this point), so a fixed center frog, hinged diverging rails should do the trick.

The other suggestion makes a lot of sense. I think the double slip is more like the twentieth one I build than the first!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2005 5:04 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:48 am
Posts: 365
Location: East Texas - USA
This is a picture of custom - all handlaid outside single slip (slide) switch.

I used code 81 rail (Right-O-Way, Central Valley, or Proto:87 Stores supplies) and constructed with 0.043" flangeways for our club.

The picture was the initial lay in - was required to have some additional work and repairs once mounted.


Attachments:
etmrc_slide_eb.jpg
etmrc_slide_eb.jpg [ 98.31 KiB | Viewed 9211 times ]

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.
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