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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 7:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:08 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Bellevue, WA
Since I'm starting my latest (I think the it's the 9th) layout literally from "scratch", I got real enthused about FastTracks.

Then I looked at the rough sketch of my planned "modest" layout which in a 15'x18' shared environment is substantially smaller than my old 28'x36' dedicated one.

The old one had plenty of room to run trains around and around and up and down, was heavy on "dramatic" scenery and lighting/buildings and long passenger trains. Pretty...and pretty boring.

This one is being constructed after operating principles, but keeping my desire for detailed buildings/scenery/animation. Wow!

Plus, I model in HOn3 logging and Large HO Electrics/Steam (Pacific Northwest).

OK, so that's the background.

The "bottom line" is that it seems a "standard off-the-shelf turnout" will never work except in one long yard.

The problems are:
a) custom dual-curved turnouts, standard gauge, all over the place,
b) dual gauge turnouts,
c) stub switches, possibly dual gauge, and at least one 3-way in either gauge.
d) wiring (c).

The good news is I have not yet found a need for a double cross-over; yet. But, a scissors (that works) is likely.

Given all of the above, and NOT using #4's, what would be the best:
1) tool package option and pricing,
2) estimated time for turnout completions?

I know #2 is difficult, but assuming the person using the soldering iron can understand which end to plug into the wall socket, and can occassionally "blob" stuff together permanetly, there is hope. Even so, there must now be some GROUP CONSENSUS that AFTER X TURNOUTS OF TYPE Y it takes about Z YEARS/MONTHS/DAYS/HOURS/SECONDS each to complete.

All replies greatfully accepted!

-D

P.S. I had over 300 turnouts on the old layout, all manufractured (spelling intended), and mostly too small, too cheap.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 1:44 am
Posts: 4
Location: Melbourne, Australia
I found after just building a few turnouts that I could build two (one left one right) while sitting watching TV in an evening. This was a comfortable, no rushing, no pressure, after dinner, after the kids were in bed situation. You could do more but if you just plod along doing a couple a night its surprising how soon you are having to order more rail. :D

_________________
Graham S
Modeling the MN&S and SOO LINE in the 1970's

http://soors27.fast-tracks.net/index.php


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 Post subject: I don't watch TV
PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 9:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:08 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Bellevue, WA
How many hours of TV do you "watch of an evening?"
If you weren't watching TV, how much would your modeling be affected?

I'm not catistigating anyone, but watching TV (or Jane Fonda Workouts) seems a distraction and has nothing to do with the actual time it takes to construct a turnout.

Can't somebody provide some statistics? If not, why not?

Maybe if I rented (model) railroad movies...and ran them fast-forward.. I could...getmylayoutcompletedreallyfast!!!!!!!! ;<)

I do a lot of writing, which requires a lot of reading. Reading whilst simultaneously soldering doesn't work for me. Sigh; the burn holes in my books (and paws) disfigure (them both.)

This is probably because I'm left-handed. Seriously, I can play wicked tennis and bowl well, but one of those magical resistance soldering units is beyond my ability to use; I invaribly forget whether to touch the solder or the pedal first.

So, in plain English; how many quarts of hectares does it take to complete a Phonecian ducat turnout????

Has anyone reading this post actually completed a turnout?

If so, consider a table:
a) have you done this before? How often?
b) you're estimated "experience" rating at doing this? E.g. "first time", "twice", "still doing it after 10".
c) what type of turnout?
d) how bloody long did it take?!

I suggest you turn your answers in to the moderators directly, not to us publically (but private is OK). My rational for this is to improve understanding of the process, and thus improve delivery of the product.

Example: One process is to watch TV and build a turnout.
Example: A crew assembly-lines needed turnouts in a weekend. (I'm serious, we had to do this for a National Garden Railroad Show!)

This boils down to two issues: 1) What is important (decisions) about this particular product, and 2) How (activities) do these decisions affect MY model railroading scenario?

-Cheers


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 9:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2005 8:33 pm
Posts: 12
Figure about an hour plus or minus each for regular turnouts when using a turnout fixture. Kind of depends on whether or not you like to make one at a time or batch process the parts like an assembly line. Obviously, if you run it like an assembly line things go a little faster. The first turnout was basically a test run. I won't be putting it on the layout. The second turnout was very good as have the subsequent ones. I have made about six or seven regular #6 turnouts along with one single crossover. Your experience may be different depending on your fabrication and soldering skills. For me, the payoff is the smooth running and good looking turnout as well as the satisfaction that I made it myself at my own pace.

Rick


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:50 pm
Posts: 73
Location: Cassville, MO
Likewise, my first couple of turnouts will not go on my layout (when I get space to start it). I have completed 4 double crossovers - 2 #6's and 2 #8's. The first one took about 8 hours, the rest about 6 hours each. I finally figured out how to use the crossover fixture to build crossings and made 2 each 14 deg. and 19 deg., taking about an hour and an half each. Regular TO's include #4, #5, #6 and #8's. Somewhere about a dozen to a dozen and a half of each size, a mixture of lh and rh's. I cannot seem to get the time to ess than about an hour and fifteen minutes, even batch processing them. Part of this, I guess, may be attributed to fiddling around with things longer than needed. I also kiss the ends of all pieces with a small file to debur them. This helps when installing joiners and keeps wheels from picking or jumping at the joints. I use both a 35 watt iron and an American Beauty resistance unit. For me, the iron is a must for frog points and closure rail points.

I have also made a few multiple TO yard ladders, #4's, #5's and #6's, putting as many as would fit on a single 3 ft length of rail and keeping center distances where I wanted them. These take a little longer per TO in the ladder than a regular TO.

I have some curved TO twist ties but have not tried them yet, mainly because the instructions lead me to believe the best and most reliable way to construct them is on the actual layout, in their final position. It looks like pre-constructing them may let them change the curvature before installation, since there is no easy way to install PCB ties at strategic locations. Also, the spikes need to penetrate the roadbed.

Too bad there is not a curvable twist tie that is PCB or includes PCB's

I hope this is somewhat like the info you are looking for.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 4:13 am 
Sorry I tried to help, I will turn the TV off and buy a stop watch :( I was just try to give you an indication that you easily build two a night.


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 Post subject: Construction Time
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 4:31 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:08 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Bellevue, WA
Yes!

I don't expect the "first time" to be great, but knowing an "average time, after experience" is good to explain why it's dollar worthy building rather than buying. Plus, the results!

It's such a faceted/fascinating hobby!

-David


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 10:00 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:50 pm
Posts: 73
Location: Cassville, MO
Doing more thinking about the curved TO's using Twist Ties - I suppose it would be possible to bench build them. One way would be to use a piece of roadbed identical to what will/is used on the layout. A template, showing at least the centerlines, and preferably the rail lines, would be a must. This could be drawn on paper then glued to the roadbed and the Twist Ties placed on them. Half inch Homasote would be one choice, there are many more to consider, as long as spikes would hold good and could be driven without predrilling. The template would be left in place, painting and ballasting will hide it.

The key word to template is accurate, since the TO could not easily be changed once built.

About the time to build TO's and trackwork - it really isn't how much time is reasonably spent, it is how accurate and good looking the finished product is plus the satisfaction of "doing it yourself", if your timetable permits. I take a little bit more time to do the best job I can, which may not be the quickest. However, I try not to waste time and am constantly looking for different/better ways to do things. Any ideas are appreciated.


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