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 Post subject: Having some success
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 3:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:28 pm
Posts: 44
I thought I'd post a scan of my 5th #6, made on the crossover jig. I only goofed a couple of places on this one, so I guess I can be trained. The crossover jig has a different arrangement of tie pockets and I accidentally added a tie. No big deal, I just removed the extra one from the QuickSticks. I also managed to file the notch on the wrong side of a wing rail, but again, no big deal. I tried notching the stock rails for the first time and I like the result. You can't even catch a fingernail on the points. It "almost" fit the scanner.

Jim


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File comment: My 5th #6
size6number5.jpg
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:50 pm
Posts: 73
Location: Cassville, MO
I also have put the extra tie into the crossover fixture on a turnout. I have thought of notching the stock rail at the points but so far haven't. Is there anything specific to be aware of? How deep did you go into the railhead? The turnout looks good and straight, should operate excellently. Thanks for the pics.


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 Post subject: Having some success
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:28 pm
Posts: 44
littletree (!empty($user->lang['WROTE'])) ? $user->lang['WROTE'] : ucwords(strtolower(str_replace('_', ' ', 'WROTE'))):
I have thought of notching the stock rail at the points but so far haven't. Is there anything specific to be aware of? How deep did you go into the railhead?

Thanks for the kind words, it survived the passage of my "most likely to derail" at full speed. I only notch the railhead about the thickness of the remaining rail on the closure rail, which is darn little. I guess I should add here that I file off a little of the inside of the railhead on the closure rail and sort of blend it into the stock rail. Hard to describe, but I take some off the top of the closure rail (a very small amount of rounding down over 1/8") and some of the side of the railhead which remains, resulting in a point about the thickness of the original web of the rail, or slightly less. I only filed the stock railhead for about 1/2" - and actually did it on the belt sander with just an angled touch. Lots of words for what takes about 30 seconds.

Jim


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 1:06 am 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 6:02 pm
Posts: 63
Location: vestal, ny
jim,
excellent work! :)
btw what did you use to cut the rail? (to isolate the frog)
your cuts seem VERY thin :)
also, what did you use to electrically isolate the pc ties?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 6:10 pm 
sam (!empty($user->lang['WROTE'])) ? $user->lang['WROTE'] : ucwords(strtolower(str_replace('_', ' ', 'WROTE'))):
jim,
excellent work! :)
btw what did you use to cut the rail? (to isolate the frog)
your cuts seem VERY thin :)
also, what did you use to electrically isolate the pc ties?


Thanks! I have a Zona jeweler's saw. It looks just like the one sold here. I use the (I think) #61 blades. The finer the teeth, the easier it is to start and finish the cut. I've used the same blade for the last 10 cuts! The cuts in the ties have been made with the corner of a triangle file, but I just started using a cut-off wheel in my Dremel tool and have gotten less obvious cuts and better control. I'd shied away from the Dremel thinking that the thing would be hard to control, but that's not the case and it really speeds up the work.

Jim


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