Fast Tracks

Is there any special reason why I shouldn't try building a #6 crossover using continuous outer stock rails? It seems to me that the final alignment would be easier and the result stronger. I realize that I'd have to support end #1 while I build end #2.

Jim

I have built #8 with one long rail and my fix for supporting is I don't. I just build both halves without the outer rails then do the alignments and outer rails as one step. The hardest part is getting the stock rail cut for the points.

I eventually built one with the continuous rails. It was a bit of a pain and I went back to the standard way.

They are easy to do with continous stock rails. I cut the stock rails so they will be exactly (or longer than) the length needed for the complete crossover, scribe the base dead center on both pieces, then place one in the fixture. Align the scribe mark precisely with the "center" end of the fixture, mark for the stock rail cut, remove it and place it on the other side of the fixture aligning the scribe mark precisely. Mark the second stock rail cut location. Do the other stock rail marking, cut the 4 places for the points.

I then build the first half of the crossover, including the full length outside rails. Make sure the scribe marks are perfectly aligned with the fixture "center" end. Then build the other half center portion, except for placing the point rails. Then align and support the first half and solder the outside rails in place. Finally, install the point rails. Add the center PC tie as normal after you remove the completed crossover from the fixture. Care must be taken to true-up the ends and de-burr them before soldering the first half to the second half. Fine tune for a perfect fit. A finely adjusted support for the first half while soldering it to the second half is a must.

If you make the stock rails longer than needed they can be trimmed during installation on the layout.

Here are two sample Dbl. Xovers that I built using a solid outer rail (dual gauge) and one with both solid outer and inner (HO Std. Dbl. Xover).
The easiest think to do is set the outer rail and inner rail in position and lightly scribe (exacto knife) the top of the rail flush with the edge of the jig. Turn it over and match the mark to the edge, then cut or mark rail where frog would go and point rail.
It takes a little more time to do it this way, but it creates a more rigid Xover. And you will need a little more elbow room to assemble it. BTW, make sure your shirt sleeves are buttoned or rolled up, otherwise you might bend the extended rails...