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Forum locked This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 12 posts ] 
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 10:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:50 pm
Posts: 73
Location: Cassville, MO
Work in progress on a #8 double slip switch. I used .025" phosphor bronze wire for the spikes that are soldered onto the points. I think it looks less bulky and more realistic than the tabs/screws. LOTS more time involved than a standard switch or double crossover.


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dbl slip switch number 8.jpg
dbl slip switch number 8.jpg [ 91.63 KiB | Viewed 19526 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 10:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:50 pm
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Location: Cassville, MO
Ron/Tim:

Somehow the photo did not show up - what am I doing wrong? I have posted photos before without problem.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 10:41 pm 
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Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada
I just did a test image upload and it seemed to work ok for me. I notice that the system did have a file size restriction. If you photo was large, that may be what was causing the problem.

I have removed the file size restriction. Give it another try.

Can you preview your post with the image in it?

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Fast Tracks


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:50 pm
Posts: 73
Location: Cassville, MO
Thanks for the quick reply.

I checked the filesize and it is only about 92kb, however it was wide, 9", and narrow, 3". I changed it to 8" wide which made it 73kb (resolution is 75), it still will not show up. Still don't know what I am doing wrong. It is a simple JPEG file. This is a scanned image v/s a true photo.


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dbl slip switch number 8.jpg
dbl slip switch number 8.jpg [ 72.96 KiB | Viewed 19457 times ]
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 Post subject: 2nd #8 dbl slip sw photo
PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:50 pm
Posts: 73
Location: Cassville, MO
I have another slip switch in progress, without the Quick Sticks attached. I scanned it at 200 dpi, filesize 108 kb. It loaded fine. The only difference in the method of scanning was the program. The one that won't load was scanned thru Corel Draw 8 and exported as a JPEG. The second one was scanned thru Adobe Photoshop and exported as a JPEG. I will rescan the first one this was and try to load it later. I really would like to know what you think of the point spike method I have used.

Thanks


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2nd dbl slip switch number 8.JPG
2nd dbl slip switch number 8.JPG [ 107.96 KiB | Viewed 19451 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:50 pm
Posts: 73
Location: Cassville, MO
Here is the scan of the same one I tried above, this time scanned thru Adobe. Filesize 206 kb, 200 dpi. Looks like I need to make sure not to use Corel Draw to do the scanning thru.


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1st dbl slip switch number 8.JPG
1st dbl slip switch number 8.JPG [ 205.3 KiB | Viewed 19443 times ]
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 Post subject: DS Points
PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 2:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:48 am
Posts: 365
Location: East Texas - USA
The 'finished' JPEG appears to actually use spikes and not the Phospher Bronze that started out the topic. This matches the methods I use (only I make my spikes from 0.020" brass wire). (My 'normal' - through the ties spikes are 0.015" spring steel wire). The second - in construction - DS appears to have all the points solid - when do you cut them for hinging - or do you intend to 'flex' these. If you are going to flex them, what kind of problems to you have with the short center points.

You soldering work is very clean and well done.

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I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 3:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:50 pm
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Location: Cassville, MO
Thanks for the inquiry and comments, Ed

On the #1 finished switch I did use phosphor bronze for the soldered spikes. I bent the ends over under the throwbars to keep the points from rising during operation. On the hinge ends I used one soldered phosphor bronze spike on one side and an ME spike on the other side. The bronze spike allows for freedom to swivel and the ME spike keeps that end down on the tie. The ME spike is not soldered. Both are filed flush with the bottom of the wood tie and the ME spike is coated with CA to keep it in place.

On the question about the #2 switch - I cut the short frog point rail almost into so I can flex them without permanently bending the rail, so I can get the proper clearance and attach the points to the throwbars. I just flex the rail for the longer point rails so I can locate and attach the bronze spikes to the throwbars. When all throwbars are attached, I lay the assembly on the quicksticks, mark where the point rails need to be cut, and cut all of them off. I mark which one came from where. I then attach the quicksticks, followed by installing the points with hinge and holddown spikes.

I chose the .025 phosphor bronze just because it was what I had that was the same diameter as the ME spikes. I think they could be somewhat smaller and plan on using .020" phosphor bronze or brass wire on the #2, if I have any. I also do not like the bulkiness of the ME spikes. I DO like the spikes produced by your method from music wire. I have made hundreds from .015" and .010" wire. I will use these instead of ME in the future.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 12:44 am
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Location: San Francisco Bay Area
That double slip is a thing of beauty!

Steve

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:18 pm 
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Now that is something to be proud of! Masterfully done. Be sure to post some pictures of it in place!

Tim

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Tim Warris
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 12:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2006 7:04 pm
Posts: 45
I have noticed that on your switch you have used a non clad PC tie for teh throw bar. the question is where did you get these?


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 Post subject: non-clad throwbar tie
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:31 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:50 pm
Posts: 73
Location: Cassville, MO
I used a pc board etchant to remove the cladding from a PCB tie. It comes out a little bit smoother than filing it, but filing works OK also.

I done this so I could solder the spike to the point w/o sticking the point to the tie.

littletree


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