Fast Tracks

Hello Ron or Tim,

I have a question for either of you gentleman.
On building turnouts I have found that the point rails scrape away the paint, (even after drying a week) My thought was to use primer, but I'm thinking that with the primer and paint the thickness would only lead to the same problem, paint wearing off the tie tops.,

So far I done a few things to migatate this problem,
1. After forming the point rails, a take a file to the bottom of the points and relieve the edge so it isn't sharp. I dont know how well this is going to work,
2 I intend trying a primer on the ties first. Then paint, Since the rail is going to get painted too, I feel I can kill two birds with one rock.

Now heres the question:
Have you tried removing the copper cladding from the tie tops (especially in the vicinity of the point rails) and is there a risk of reducing the strength of the solder bonds?????????.

Note: this is after the turnout is constructed, cleaned, just before painting, (actually it would need another cleaning after filing)

Rob.

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Rob de Rebel

Rob,

I have not tried to remove the copper cladding, but I have noticed that it will not hold paint in the area where the points move, I didn't think it was all that noticeable and figured it was a worth while trade off to use the PC board ties to build turnouts in the fixture.

One of the advantages of the method of hinging the points that I covered in my latest newsletter http://www.handlaidtrack.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=14 is that you can remove the copper from the throw bar as the spikes soldered to the rail will pivot in a hole in the throw bar and it isn't necessary to have the copper to solder to, so when the turnout is painted it will not scrape off the paint revealing the shinny copper. Its a bit more work, but if you feel the copper is distracting it may be worth the extra effort.

📷 Image no longer available Originally hosted at www.handlaidtrack.com — the host went away before this archive was made.

One thing you might try, although I have no idea if it will work as this is only a theory, is to use a PC board etching fluid, they type used to form PC boards for electronics, and immerse the completed turnout to remove the copper from the PC boards once the turnout is complete. I don't know how this would effect the solder or the rail, it might work, it might dissolve the whole thing! But if it does work it would be a very effective method to completely remove all the copper form the PC board ties, leaving only the Fiberglas, which I'm sure would take paint quite well.

If you do try this, let us know how it works!

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Cheers!

Tim Warris
Fast Tracks
http://www.fast-tracks.net
service@fast-tracks.net

Interesting idea about using the etchant for removing the copper, but I think that might undermine the solder joint more than the filing would, At least with filing the rail base is unaffected, with the acid I think it would get under the rail and eat the solder also. But it may warrant an experiment.

Rob

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Rob de Rebel

Hi Guys

I have removed the copper from most of my ties, I leave it on a couple where I need to have electrical continuity. I started by etching, it worked fine but was a bit messy, then a mate told me the heat would remove the copper - he was right. I cut the copper where I wanted to remove it with a scalpel blade, apply heat with a soldering iron and in a few seconds the glue melts then I slip the scalpel under and lift the copper off. I do this before I build the turnout.

Graham

I've tried this, but I think it undermines the strength of the point connection. Had a few break away. I think I going to try to use a chem blackener instead

rob

Rob and/or others:
You mentioned using a chemical blackener to weather your turnouts. Have you sucessfully tried this method and, if so, what was your process and which brand of blackener did you use?

TIA
Bill

I use the Micro engineerin rail weathering solution. You have to clean the track very well. otherwise you get blochy results. I am going to try to give the rail a chem cleaning using white vinigar, to see if it helps reduce that. Other than that, it tooth brush soap and water or comet.
'
Rob

The vinagar solution worked out great! not only did it clean the rails but it cleaned the copper ties.

So in the end the blackening agent finish was more consistent not only on the rail but the ties too! I now have a turnout with chemically blackened rails and ties. Thus when painted tie brown, if the paint chips with shouldn't show copper.

Rob

Sounds great Rob! Thanks for sharing that with us, how about some pictures?

_________________
Cheers!

Tim Warris
Fast Tracks
http://www.fast-tracks.net
service@fast-tracks.net