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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 11:27 pm 
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I was wondering if I buy either a double slip fixture or a three way fixture, would it be feasible to use the fixture to create simple turnouts on the same fixture by selective assembly?

It would be nice to get the extra flexibility without purchasing the extra fixture- or I could buy another in another turnout number instead.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 9:59 am 
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I was wondering if I buy either a double slip fixture or a three way fixture, would it be feasible to use the fixture to create simple turnouts on the same fixture by selective assembly


Hi,

While they were not designed with this purpose in mind, it is possible to use some fixtures to make other sizes. This is true with the double crossover fixture, these can be used to make a standard turnout. Three way fixtures can be used to make turnouts, but will require some thought, as it can be confusing to determine which pockets to use as these are a bit of a puzzle.

Not sure if a slip could be used to make anything other than a single or double slip switch.

The most versitile fixture in this regard is the dual guage fixtures, as these can produce dual gauge, standard gauge, narrow gauge, or just about any combination of the three. The only issue is that narrow gauge turnouts produced in the dual gauge fixtures are a bit different than the turnouts a "standard" narrow gauge fixture would produce, as the length of the turnout is longer to fit into a standard turnout, and therefore the QuickSticks we sell for narrow gauge turnouts will not match these.

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Tim Warris
Fast Tracks
http://www.fast-tracks.net
service@fast-tracks.net


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:48 am
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Location: East Texas - USA
Tim is correct in this area - however;

A double slip can in theory construct a straight - normal turnout - but hte ties would be all wrong at a funny angle cant.

You could selectively build and construct the rails as a normal turnout and before removing from the jig do the following:

1. Tin railhead tops and some extra PC ties accross the top of the rails and solder 'keeper' ties on the top.

2. Remove the assembly.

3. De-solder the 'orginal' on the base ties and mount the rails carefully on a twist ties base (or your own ties handlaid). See notes below - this is not a 'normal' geometry.

4. Spike well AND glue the bases along stock, frog, and closure rails (being VERY careful not to glue where moving points will be at the ties).

5. Desolder the top 'keeper' braces and clean up railheads.

This approach would almost be like just handlaying from scratch and would entail the extra steps of undoing etc. - but you should get a very fine and smooth flowing geometry. NOTE: the length of the turnout WILL NOT match the same frog numbered turnout for a given straight - normal - turnout. So you'll have to do adjustments with the ties and check using various paper templates before you just dig in.

Only real advantage to doing this would be the DS jig would assist with a good gage and geometry at less cost than a separate jig. The down side would be a lot of extra work and tie placment 'fiddiling'.

The dual gage fixture and the double crossing fixture are good bets for varied 'other' turnouts - but then you would have to need the dual and/or narrow gage to take advanatage of that approach for the dual gage fixture.

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COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
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I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.


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