Fast Tracks

How does one wire the turnout for DCC. I trust the stock rails both need to be wired, do I also do the point rails, the isolated part of the frog, etc.?

Is there a diagram that illustrates how/where to wire the turnout correctly?

Thanks,
Sambear

_________________
"Life is about learning"

Sam Bear,

The stock rails are indeed wired. Correctly constructed, the closure rails become wired through the PC board ties (the isolation cuts are between the closure rails). If you constructed with points solid and part of the closure rails - then they are also already wired. If you chose to construct points as hinged rails, then a very small wire from the closure rail toe to the point rail head will make electrical conduction reliable, though there are also several other techniques, but be sure that the points and the closure rails maintain same polarity as their adjoining stock rail. (You will need to insure the point throw bar is correctly gaped between the points), The isolated frog is best wired through turnout throw contact points. This will give full electrical contact through the route, but some will advocate allowing the frog to stay 'blank' and motive power will bridge the frog with other wheels on the stock and closure rails picking up power. Short wheel base motive power will practically demand powering the frog - it's worth the effort for increased reliability. There's several general diagrams for DCC (and just plain DC) that are instructive and helpful - try the http://www.wiringfordcc.com/ site for some specific discussions and illustrations.

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.

Hello Sambear,

We have a wiring diagram on our site that may be helpful. You will find it here:

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/tech-turnout-wiring-r.php

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Cheers!

Ron Warris
Fast Tracks

Ron / Ed:

Thank your very much for giving guidance to me. The note and the link were great. The linked colour diagram is very informative and will definitely help.

Next question (oops) what would be the best switch stand to use on the throwbar? I know Caboose Industries has a working switch stand, but is there another place to find the Racor type used by CN that works as well? Or do I sit with the Tortoise Switch Machine and use dummy Racor switch stands instead?

As always, help is much appreciated...

Sambear

_________________
"Life is about learning"

Sambear,

For greatest control, and best fidelity, I'd recommend the Tortoise for actual movement (and the contacts for electrical), and go with a scaled dummy for your choice of prototype.

This however is a very personal choice. I've used several manual hookups and had to add micro switches for the electrical control of the froq polarity, and found that the effort was not worth just getting the Tortoise machines. But you should try several options for yourself and make the choice of what is most comfortable for you.

IF you want to experiment some - try Railway-Engineering manual throws, Scale Shops motorized controls, and a variety of levers and standard slide switches until you settle on your own choice. There's a LOT of methods documented in the magazines, on the web, and at local clubs.

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.