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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 11:04 am 
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2004 3:26 am
Posts: 10
Location: Riverstone, NSW, AUSTRALIA
Hi all

I am looking for advice on using TwistTies with Central Valley ties strips. I bought 106' of the CVMW new 2003 range of ties strips to use on my layout, but I have a "small" problem. The tie strips are .0735" high and TwistTies are .0785" high (according to my digital calipers). I know this is close to the thickness of a sheet of paper but still makes a "bump" coming off the plywood turnout base onto the ties strips.

Should I...

a) Sand the turnout bases (on the bottom) to bring them down to the ties strip height (if yes, what would be the best way?)

b) Shim the tie strips up to the turnout base height.

I have thought of b) more than a) but my issue is to shim with what - paper, styrene sheet, ????

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Cheers
Bruce


Last edited by racedirector on Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:48 am
Posts: 365
Location: East Texas - USA
Bruce,

Five thousandths is not all that much - be certain that the rails bridge across the change of ties.

You could try (it's what I do at the club when mixing and matching various vendor track components) just a bit of both methods. Sanding the twist ties on the bottom using a cross wise sanding (following the ties lengthwise) of say an 80 grit paper first and follow with a light 160+ paper for smoothing - only need to do for about an inch or so. Don't try and sand the head blocs very much if at all, as then you'll be squeezing the tie bar some. Also use just a good sheet of 20 weight paper for about another inch or so to shim up the CVT ties.

When you select the rails - make certain they come off the twisties part of the installation for at least 2 to 3 inches so that the joint is back onto the level portion of the CVT ties and not right at the abutting joint.

The fitting will go smooth - you can also dress the rail heads with some light passes of filing - but be certain to polish off with some 400+ or so emery cloth to remove any scratches that can collect dirt.

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2004 3:26 am
Posts: 10
Location: Riverstone, NSW, AUSTRALIA
Thanks Ed

A combination of methods sounds like a good idea.

Cheers
Bruce


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 11:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:28 pm
Posts: 44
emccamey (!empty($user->lang['WROTE'])) ? $user->lang['WROTE'] : ucwords(strtolower(str_replace('_', ' ', 'WROTE'))):
Bruce,
The fitting will go smooth - you can also dress the rail heads with some light passes of filing - but be certain to polish off with some 400+ or so emery cloth to remove any scratches that can collect dirt.
I discovered that one of those cheap diamond stones they sell to sharpen fish hooks (about 1" x 2.5", steel with a groove down the center) works pretty darn well to polish up where you've had to file a bit.

The larger ones work well to flush an unruly frog area and don't leave marks, should you have one. They can be a bit expensive.

If I can pick up the piece, like a new turnout, I use a sheet of 400 to 600 grit sandpaper stuck to a sheet of heavy glass I picked up at a glass shop. Just ask for it to be seamed on the edges. It's pretty cheap if you'll take whatever they have left over. All it has to be is smooth, flat and big enough, but thick is best. Mine's about 3/8". You can make the rails shine all over very easily that way.

Jim


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