Fast Tracks

Good afternoon. I've noticed that in your video for constructing turnouts you use a liquid flux. I've always put up with the paste flux mostly because I didn't know there was such a thing as liquid flux. The only liquid flux I could find is an acid based flux, not a rosin based. Will this cause problems? If so, what kind?

Thanks.
Stephen

By the way, I really enjoy your products, I'm in the process of replacing about 24 of my old hand made turnouts with new ones made with your jig. The old ones are still OK but the new ones made with your tools are unbelievably smooth, accurate and look fantastic!

Tim specifically supports use of acid based soldering and then a good washing up afterwards.

I use a safe non-acid liquid flux from H&N Electronics. Comes in two consistences, really liquid and more like a gel. These "super safe" solder fluxes are great for electrical work and do just fine for rails to PC board mechanical soldering.

Check out: http://www.ccis.com/home/hn/

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.

thanks for the advice!
Stephen

Which kind of flux does Tim use? Paste or liquid? What brand? I'm using a paste flux which isn't the greatest.

Dick M

Ed recommended to me the 'Super Safe' rosin flux from this site http://www.ccis.com/home/hn/

I bought the gel version and the package arrived amazingly fast. I am close to getting my order from Fast Tracks (wire, rail, etc.). Soon I will put the 'Super Safe' flux through its paces.

Acid flux, in my experience, worked well enough. I used a paste and did find it messy with which to work. The big issue I faced was clean-up. I noticed that the acid kept penetrating long after I thought I had cleaned the turnout. One must be very thorough when extricating the acid flux from a completed turnout.

_________________
"Life is about learning"

Hi Guys,

The flux I use is Kester's SP-30 acid flux. The main reason I recommend this type of flux is that modelers new to soldering rail to PC board will find it much easier when using an aggressive acid based flux. The downside to the easy soldering is that the flux residue must be removed completely. Fortunately this is pretty easy to do using a good stiff brush.

📷 Image no longer available Originally hosted at www.handlaidtrack.com — the host went away before this archive was made.

When the soldering is complete I give the tops of the PC board a good scrubbing with one of these brushes until the copper foil is nice and shiny and all traces of flux are gone from the ties and the rail. This is good practice regardless of the type of flux being used as it will smooth out the solder joints and provide a good surface on the PC boards for paint to adhere to.

📷 Image no longer available Originally hosted at www.handlaidtrack.com — the host went away before this archive was made.

This goes quick and does a great job. Follow this up with a quick cleaning with soapy water, this will remove any grit left over on the turnout from construction.

📷 Image no longer available Originally hosted at www.handlaidtrack.com — the host went away before this archive was made.

Following these steps will ensure solder joints will stay strong for the long haul. I have turnouts over 15 years old built with acid flux and zero problems.

Painting the turnout will also create a barrier between any acid residue and oxygen, preventing corrosion.

That said, feel free to use any type flux desired, they will all work to some degree. Modelers new to soldering might find acid works well as it is quite aggressive when soldering rail to PC board ties, both of which are usually covered with oils and corrosion of some form, acid flux is aggressive enough to burn through all that.

I have been using the Supersafe gel flux lately and find it works quite well and is a good alternative to an acid flux if you are concerned about corrosion issues.

_________________
Cheers!

Tim Warris
Fast Tracks
http://www.fast-tracks.net
service@fast-tracks.net

One aspect of Tim's use of the acid flux is the ability to cut through the possible films of oil and some corrosion on the PC ties and/or rails.

It is always best to have the parts cleaned well with using any flux. On the PC ties, I always use a Dremel with a wire brush and polish off the PC tie top along the rail line where the solder will be. I also use a bright boy pad along the bottom of the rail bases. Then with the flux (I do use the Super Safe GEL), I find the soldering goes very well with these cleaned components.

For the high stress points I will also use the non-lead tin-silver solder. This is much stronger. However, the tin-silver solder also requires more heat and some practice with using it is important.

If you use the non-acid, still a post soldering clean up is recommended.

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.

This subject may have been covered many times before but I will chime in anyway. I own a #8 Z scale jig and a friend loaned me his #6. The loaner has been so eaten by residual flux that you cannot get rail to fit hardly at all. I have cleaned and cleaned but the damaged was already done. He only built 25-30 turnouts is all. I am close to that quantity on my #8 but I clean it within a minute or less of pulling the turnout out of the jig. I really scrub it thoroughly. Additionally if I am building up a hand full of frogs I usually build them in pairs and between each pair the jig gets a scrub there as well. My jig looks like it is brand new. So, my point is that it would be VERY wise to pay very close attention to cleaning your jigs as well.

Tom in Dallas