Fast Tracks

As an experiment I wanted to try and build a double cross over without a jig. So I printed of the No. 6 x-over template and went to work. If it helps all the rail, PCB ties, and .15 solder were all purchased from FastTracks.

Here are my results so far. Its turning out really well. One side of the crossing there is a slight click, click as the metal wheeks on my test truck crosses over the frogs. On the other side its like glass. Nice and smooth, just metal wheels on metal rails. I can't wait to get home and finish it off.

📷 Image no longer available Originally hosted at gallery.zealot.com — the host went away before this archive was made.

Excellent! Very well done. A couple of the points right at the oblique crossing appear a bit short and blunt. That's likely causing the 'clicks'. I tend to construct with narrower flangeways - then use a screw head slot file to open them up. This makes them dead straight and a nice well formed point.

I think you'll have no operational problems and the sounds will be actually a nice feature!

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.

Thanks Ed!

I did my best to get the frog points as sharp as possible. I was using a plastic protractor clamped to my Delta bench top belt sander to get the degree angles required. This method seemed to work best for me as opposed to attempting to clamp and file the rail then check the fit. Using the sander allowed me to sand a bit off, check the fit, and quickly go back to sander if needed to make tiny corrections. Still, if I continue to go this route, I may invest in a Point Form tool to try and be more accurate in the future.

Aside from the clickety clack I can rock the trucks through the x-over no problems. Yeah. I'm pretty stoked about how well this is coming along.

One thing that does help, is to lightly file the side of the base of the rail so that the fit comes closer and can be 'tightened' up. If you get too much off, then the rail has too much 'leeway' and is harder to position and solder for a straight smooth fit. A lot depends on the rail you are using. I use the LaVancil code 81 rail, which has a smaller base (and railhead) and allows a nice fit and keeps the flangeways correct.

It does look good.

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.

I know what you are saying. I would lightly file and clean off any burrs left after each pass at the sander to get a nice fit. I'm using the ME code 83 rail as that is what I started with and what I'm using on my layout. That said I always find your insight and advice helpful. Thanks for your replies.

One idea that did occur to me was to try using a finer grade sanding disk. I think the stock one is a tad too course for this purpose...(I don't know the grit count off hand). It could be something to try for the next time. There will be a next time.

I'm already trying to figure how to design my own custom trackwork in CAD for which I'll have no choice but to do it mostly freehand. It's like this simple start has opened up a whole level of possibilities for unique but functional trackwork.

Hey it can only get better from here on in.

Almost done. I still need to do the isolation gaps, clean up the PC ties and install the throwbars. I did some more tweaking over the frog points and they are like butter now.

📷 Image no longer available Originally hosted at gallery.zealot.com — the host went away before this archive was made.

You are a far braver soul than me.

I doubt I would ever leave the Fast Tracks jig out of a project; its accuracy is so beyond reproach I doubt if I could ever come close with any build just using a printed template.

I use my printed guide for marking isolation gaps and to mark where the stock rail needs to be ground away to leave room for the closure rail.

Thanks Sam.

Funny thing about this project is that I realyl don't have a use for a x-over on current layout. Although I may need to find a spot for it now even if it is only "ornamental".

I did it, though, as practice. I am in need of some specialty track work which I will have to design from scratch and go it alone. This was to see if I could do this without a jig of some sorts and by just using basic methods to achieve my goal.

I'll post updates as I progress...especially once I hit the build stage.

Looks like you are doing well, but as you said, the frog and points jig might help you make good into great.

Have fun making the special work. Are you going to give Tim a run on his Terminal track work????

Kurt

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Kurt Konrath

SP was king of the road, Cotten Belt will run forever! D&RGW will rule the hills!

Oh heck no!!! What Tim is doing is lightyears beyond what I can do at present. I get lots of inspiration from work like his Terminal trackwork though and see what is possible with careful planning and know how.

I am not an engineer, I don't routinely design structure in AutoCAD, and I have no real construction or building background. I'm just good with my hands and good with tools. Being a reasonably good artist doesn't hurt either I suppose.

I like your Fast Tracks billboard! Did you make that, or order it from somewhere? Looks like you will have a great yard to play with when all the track work is done. How do you plan on controlling all those switches?

_________________
Kurt Konrath

SP was king of the road, Cotten Belt will run forever! D&RGW will rule the hills!

The FastTracks billboard came with my first order when I purchased the No. 5 turnout jig. I also received another one when I ordered the No. 6 curved turnout jig. So I have a couple of them now.

My turnouts are at present controlled by caboose industry manual ground throws with the contacts. FastTracks sells them for a good price compared to other on-line retailers. I ordered fourteen to get me started.

I would however eventually like to install and wire up some Tortoise Switch Machines w/ accessory decoders in the distant future. I'm kinda lazy that way. I'd like to automate to the point where I can sit on the stool at my work bench and control everything from the cab one day.

Sounds like a solid plan. I used to belong to a club in town which went DCC (digitrax) and we put in some tortoise machines on main crossovers and then we hooked up a stationary decoder to them. It was fun to program the turnouts, but once you figured it all out, it was easy.

Lots of fun hitting a button and watching a turnout throw just before you hit it.

One good thing was we used small white craft beads with numbers put on to make low clearance switch markers. That way you could see the number to call up to throw the switch. Made it easier on the old gray matter not to have to remember the numbers or names.

_________________
Kurt Konrath

SP was king of the road, Cotten Belt will run forever! D&RGW will rule the hills!